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Field Notes · Tokyo

Tokyo,
in yarn.

Three walking routes through Tokyo's yarn shops, for the visiting knitter with half a day to spare. Distances are short, the trains are kind, and every route leaves room for coffee.

Hours were checked in July 2026. Small shops change their rhythms, so a quick look at each shop's own page before a special trip is kind to everyone.

Route 01

Bakurochō → Asakusabashi

The old wholesale district: an early start, quiet streets, and industrial yarn.

Time: About 3 hours on foot, coffee included · Best days: Wednesday to Saturday

01

神田手芸 ステッチ館 · Kanda Shugei Stitch-kan

Higashi-Kanda

Three quiet floors of yarn, embroidery thread, and notions in the old wholesale district east of Kanda. Prices lean wholesale, the atmosphere is wonderfully old-school, and it opens at nine — a rare early start for a yarn day.

Station
Bakurochō (JR Sōbu rapid), exit 4, 1 min
Hours
Mon–Sat 9:00–17:00
Closed
Sundays & holidays
Open in Maps

Walk about 10 minutes north-east to Asakusabashi station.

02

ITORICOT イトリコ

Asakusabashi

A third-floor shop above Asakusabashi station, collecting leftover industrial yarns from Japanese and overseas mills — silk mohair, cashmere blends, and their own sock yarn. The lots change with the seasons, so every visit reads a little differently.

Station
Asakusabashi (JR Sōbu / Toei Asakusa), station-front building 3F
Hours
11:00–17:00
Closed
Tuesdays, plus irregular days — check Instagram before visiting
Open in Maps

If the afternoon is still young, stroll 15 minutes north to Kuramae for coffee and stationery.

Route 02

Ebisu → Omotesandō → Gaienmae

Brand flagships and hand-dyed imports, strung along the city's west side.

Time: About 4 hours, with one short train hop · Best days: Wednesday to Saturday

01

DARUMA STORE -Tokyo-

Ebisu

The Tokyo home of DARUMA, the Osaka yarn maker founded in 1901, tucked between Ebisu and Daikanyama. The full range is here — yarns, fabric, patterns, and samples knitted up so you can see each yarn as a finished thing. Much of it never travels outside Japan.

Station
Ebisu (JR Yamanote / Hibiya line), about 8 min on foot
Hours
10:30–18:00
Closed
Sundays
Open in Maps

Two stops on the Yamanote line from Ebisu to Harajuku, then an 8-minute walk into Jingūmae.

02

WALNUT Tokyo

Omotesandō

amirisu's Tokyo shop, settled at a new Jingūmae address since September 2025. Hand-dyed and small-mill yarns from around the world — La Bien Aimée, Brooklyn Tweed, Isager — alongside kits and Japan-only colorways.

Station
Jingūmae 5-39-3, between Harajuku and Omotesandō stations
Hours
Tue–Sat 12:00–17:00
Closed
Sundays & Mondays
Open in Maps

Walk about 20 minutes through Aoyama, or ride one stop on the Ginza line from Omotesandō to Gaienmae.

03

Knittingbird Tokyo

Minami-Aoyama

The first permanent shop from Knittingbird, the knitting webzine known for reviving industrial yarns into hand-knitting yarns. Original lamé and fancy yarns in small batches, one minute from the station.

Station
Gaienmae (Ginza line), exit 1b, 1 min
Hours
11:00–18:00
Closed
Mondays & Tuesdays
Open in Maps
Route 03

Shinjuku → Kichijōji → Shimokitazawa

Department-floor abundance, then indie charm, along the Chūō and Inokashira lines.

Time: A generous half day, about 5 hours · Best days: Friday to Sunday

01

新宿オカダヤ本店 · Okadaya Shinjuku

Shinjuku

Six floors of craft heaven by Shinjuku station's east side, running since 1926. Yarn lives on the sixth floor: every major Japanese brand — DARUMA, Hamanaka, Puppy, Rich More — plus walls of Clover and Tulip needles at local prices.

Station
Shinjuku, east side toward Kabukichō
Hours
10:30–20:30
Closed
Open daily (rare exceptions)
Open in Maps
02

ユザワヤ 京王新宿店 · Yuzawaya Keiō Shinjuku

ShinjukuOptional stop

A ten-minute walk from Okadaya, on the fourth floor of the Keiō department store — for the day when one craft floor is not quite enough. The annual membership card pays for itself quickly if you plan more than one visit.

Station
Keiō department store 4F, at Shinjuku station's west side
Hours
10:00–20:00
Closed
Follows the department store's calendar
Open in Maps

Ride the Chūō line rapid from Shinjuku, 15 minutes to Kichijōji.

03

AVRIL 吉祥寺店

Kichijōji

The Tokyo outpost of Avril, the Kyoto yarn maker beloved for its airy, sparkling specialty yarns — mohair loops, silk, paper yarn — many sold by the gram, in tiny amounts. Perfect for carrying a strand of something unusual home in your pocket.

Station
Kichijōji (JR Chūō / Inokashira), a few minutes from the north exit
Hours
10:00–17:30 (until 17:00 in Jul–Aug)
Closed
Wednesdays & Thursdays
Open in Maps
04

ユザワヤ キラリナ京王吉祥寺店 · Yuzawaya Kichijōji

KichijōjiOptional stop

One big floor of fabric, yarn, and tools directly above the station. Open until nine in the evening, which no other stop on this page can say.

Station
Kirarina 8F, directly above Kichijōji station
Hours
10:00–21:00
Closed
Follows the building's calendar
Open in Maps

The Inokashira line runs straight from Kichijōji to Shimokitazawa, about 12 minutes.

05

パピー下北沢店 · Puppy Shimokitazawa

Shimokitazawa

The flagship of Puppy, one of Japan's classic hand-knitting brands. House yarns alongside European imports, staff who knit, and a finishing service for the sweater you almost completed on holiday.

Station
Shimokitazawa (Inokashira / Odakyū), short walk from the west side
Hours
11:00–19:00
Closed
Mondays
Open in Maps
A gentle note on tax-free shopping

From 1 November 2026, Japan's tax-free system changes to a refund model: you pay the regular tax-included price in the shop, then receive the consumption tax back through customs when you leave the country. Bring your passport when you shop, keep your receipts, and allow a little extra time at the airport. Smaller shops may not offer tax-free purchases at all; larger stores such as Okadaya and Yuzawaya have dedicated counters, and the staff will walk you through it.

Gathered slowly by Onsdag Studio, a small studio in Tokyo working with yarn, image, and code. If a shop has moved, or a favourite of yours is missing, we would love to hear.